Description
Thistledown was established by Master of Wine Giles Cooke with the goal of producing refined, textural Australian wines. By gaining access to long-forgotten Old Vine Grenache vineyards in McLaren Vale, Giles has been able to craft wines that showcase subtle perfume, elegance, and a true reflection of their origin. His aim is to celebrate the stories of these remarkable vineyards through wines of sophistication and personality.
Viticulture
Thorny Devil draws on fruit from multiple sub-regions of McLaren Vale, all old, dry-grown, and bush-trained. Picking times vary by site, but the common approach is “picking on the way up” to preserve vibrancy and freshness. The wine’s name was inspired by a small local lizard discovered in the vineyard during the 2014 vintage, a nod to the natural environment that shapes the vineyards.
Winemaking
All ferments are wild, with varying percentages of whole bunches. Extraction is light, focusing on infusion rather than heavy tannin. After pressing, the wine is aged for approximately 8 months in seasoned French oak hogsheads of 300 and 500 litres before bottling.
Tasting Note
Pale in hue yet expressive, Thorny Devil exhibits the classic McLaren Vale perfume and spice. The palate is elegant and layered, revealing wild strawberry, subtle spice, and silky texture. A delicate, refined red with a captivating textural complexity.
Food Matching
Pairs beautifully with game meats, North African-style lamb, and charcuterie.
Awards
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James Suckling 93 Points – “Entry point to the glories of McLaren Vale Grenache…tamarind, red cherries, mint, rhubarb, cranberry, white pepper, clove and dried thyme notes on a long, gentle finish.” NG(MW), 2024
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The Wine Front 93 Points – “Medium-bodied, sappy cherry with fine-grained tannins, juicy finish, lively and fresh. Very nice.” GW, 2024
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Robert Parker Wine Advocate 92 Points – “Raspberry compote, orange peel, black tea, humbug candies and red licorice on the nose; plush, luxurious and velvety palate.” EL, 2024
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Halliday Wine Companion 2025 Special Value 94 Points – “Flavours of cranberry, wild raspberry, pomegranate and rose, white pepper and cassia; elegant, well-structured, and vibrant.” ME, August 2024
Technical Details
Varieties: Grenache 94%, Mataro 6%
Oak Ageing: 10 Months in old oak hogsheads, 100% of wine, 10% new oak
Reviews
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